Tuesday, November 29, 2011

World AIDS Day: Posters From Victoria

December 1st is World AIDS Day. More than thirty 30 years on, there are still thousands of new HIV infections each year, and AIDS still claims thousands of lives. The Australia State of Victoria holds an annual World AIDS Day Poster Design competition. Here are some photos of the top entries that I took outside the National Victoria Gallery at Federation Square. 

My Favorite:
It Says It All
Winner of the 2011
Victoria World AIDS Day
Poster Design Competition

Monday, November 28, 2011

Land Down Under 2011: On the Road to Ballarat, Daylesford and Clunes

View From Car Window
Ballarat City Hall
Ballarat is synonymous with Australia's gold rush of the 1850s. Just 1.5 hours north of Melbourne, Ballarat is a large modern city that has carefully preserved many of its gold rush buildings and landmarks. I was expecting to find a tacky gold rush town like those you would encounter in northern California (i.e., Nevada City, Folsom), but instead, Ballarat is a sophisticated city with fancy restaurants, wine bars, and cafes.

Lake Wendouree, Ballarat
Craig's Royal Hotel. Mark Twain stayed here.
Unfortunately, the prices in Ballarat match or exceed the prices you will find in Melbourne. It's like being in Norway! A small coffee will cost you $3.80 - $5.00, and a no-frills breakfast (for two) will run $35.00-$40.00. The cheapest dining option is Eureka Pizza (why gold rush towns find it necessary to have Eureka in their name has always been a mystery to me). Ballarat does have an interesting botanic garden and art gallery, but why people come to high priced Ballarat is perplexing.

House in Daylesford
Daylesford, a town northwest of Melbourne, is likewise uninspiring. Daylesford is part of “Spa Country.” This is the place where trendy Melbournians go for weekend getaways. You'll find art galleries, foodie outlets, holistic spas, and stores selling the latest in "new age" paraphernalia. The town and beautiful countryside remind me of Marin County in California: a bit precious and a tad too self-conscious about “image.” Daylesford and Ballarat aren't my thing, but then again, I'm difficult to please. 

Clunes (Sky Looks Almost Unreal)
The New and the Old
Clunes
Clunes, on the other hand, is an authentic and unpretentious town of around 1,000 people. Just 40 minutes from Ballarat, Clunes is a place where time has stood still. Visiting Clunes is like traveling to the 1930s and 1940s. Its "downtown" has aging buildings with weathered facades and vintage signage. It's like visiting Mayberry without the southern accent.   

Saturday, November 26, 2011

Melbourne's Fitzroy Gardens

Secluded Corner
Melbourne is a very livable city. There are bicycle paths, jogging trails, plenty of opportunities for water sports, and lots of green open spaces. One of the nice discoveries this visit to Melbourne has been Fitzroy Gardens. It's a 15 minute walk from Melbourne's Central Business District (CBC) and just a few minutes from our apartment. Designed in the classic English style but with subtropical vegetation, Fitzroy Gardens is an ideal place to unwind after work or a great place to start your day. It reminds me of my carefree childhood in Southern California.

Two White Parrots
Being Affectionate
The strong scent of freshly cut grass and the occasional whiff of jasmine pervades the air. During the early morning hours, I really enjoy the chatter of parrots and other birds. 


The park isn't particularly big or unique, but there's something meditative, almost serene that makes this space comfortable and inviting. There are meadows to play sport, quiet nodes to read a book, play areas for children, and even an excellent cafe and restaurant to catch a quick bite. The park's unassuming style makes it a wonderful neighborhood escape.


The Faries' Tree
1932
Melbourne's cultural attractions, diversity, temperate climate, and green open spaces makes me think that Melbourne might be a great place to live.

Thursday, November 24, 2011

Images of Melbourne on Thanksgiving Day 2011


View of Melbourne Skyline From Southbank

A Turkey in the Window on Little Collins Street
is the Closest Thing to Thanksgiving
in Melbourne
It's Thanksgiving Day! In Australia, it's just another day: no festivities, no turkey, and alas no pumpkin pie. Here are some photos I took on this uneventful day in Melbourne. 


Collins St., 5 p.m. (National Gallery of Victoria) by Melbourne Artist
John Brack. Describing the ritualized drudgery
of nine-to-five office work, Brack shows people
leaving work and walking along Collins St. toward trams and 
trains that will take them home. Brack is also commenting on Melbourne's homogeneous society of the 1950s. Australia's immigration policy favored people of Anglo-Saxon descent and excluded people deemed "less desirable." 

Modern Street Sculpture on Collins St.
An obvious reference to Brack's Painting


Tram Signage. Beware of those
Runaway Streetcars

Street Sign.
Dame Edna Place is located just off Little Collins Street here in 
her home town of Melbourne. This is no ordinary street sign.
Her name is in lights. Dame Edna would expect no less!   

Wednesday, November 23, 2011

"Spin" Korean Style


As much as I admire America's talent in the field of spin-doctoring, I must admit that South Korea seems to have one-upped us. According to a recent article in The Australian, the South Koreans have produced a short educational video that they play for visitors to the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ). The video looks for upbeat things to say about this tense, empty strip along the border, across which the two Korea’s stare at each other. “Once just a dreary minefield,” the narrator's voice intones, “now a natural wonderland!” Yes, thanks to the absence of humans, animals are flourishing. This, according to the video, is “the miracle of the DMZ.” I hope our politicians and spin doctors take note and learn from this fine example of spin. 

Tuesday, November 22, 2011

Land Down Under 2011: Melbourne's St. Kilda!


St. Kilda Hair Salons with Decorated Roofs

It's the end of spring in Australia. There have been a few rain showers, but for the most part, the weather in Melbourne couldn't be more beautiful. The long days are a welcome relief from the short cold days of Portland. In Australia, summer officially begins on the first of December.

Another Hair Salon
About 6km (3.5 miles) from central Melbourne is St. Kilda. It's described by the locals as a shabby-bohemian beach town. Last year, when I visited Bondi and Manly beaches in Sydney, I wasn't that impressed. Manly and Bondi were certainly lovely places, but they had a sort of pretentious vibe. Not so in St. Kilda. From the moment I stepped off the tram, St. Kilda had a welcoming feel.

Fairy Penguins
There are restaurants ranging from the glitzy to the cheap. There are also a surprising number of cake shops with wonderful displays, and a few interesting retail shops.

The Esplanade hugs the beach with a historic pier. At the end of the pier is a Fairy Penguin refuge. At sunset, we were told, the penguins come out in force and you can hear their distinctive chatter. We happened to be there at mid-day; even so, we were lucky enough to spot three young chicks hiding in the rocks. It's the first time I've seen penguins in the wild. No flash photography please (it frightens the birds and also damages the retina of the chicks)! Fortunately for us, it was bright and sunny, and we had no need of a flash.

Luna Park and Me
One of the first things you see when you arrive in St Kilda, and impossible to miss, is Luna Park, an amusement park with an old fashioned wooden roller coaster, and a dramatic entrance.

Inside the Esplanade Hotel
Nearby, and easier to overlook, is Hotel Esplanade. Once a chic and fashionable hotel, it's difficult to describe its current condition. It's been broken up into several bars and performance spaces. The whole thing is so informal that it actually feels like you might be walking through an abandoned building. Yet, there's a bar with people having drinks on the balcony and there's a restaurant near the entrance. The run-down look of the place has come about the natural way, not contrived by some faddish designer. It wasn't my thing, but it was worth seeing.

Galleon Cafe
in Background
Perhaps, the best find in St. Kilda came about when we overshot our tram stop and made one of those serendipitous discoveries, the St. Kilda Galleon Cafe. The Galleon Cafe is a real neighborhood diner full of locals. Crowded and full of life, the Galleon has atmosphere and really good food at affordable prices. Try the sweet potato, basil, feta hash served with wilted spinach and chili chutney. Absolutely delicious!

t
St. Kilda Pier. The Penguin Refuge
in Background
I highly recommend St. Kilda for an enjoyable day trip. I hope to return next week and go kite sailing!

Thursday, November 10, 2011

Es ist Nicht Vorbei

Unlike American TV, which has become an abyss of schlock, German TV still has some thoughtful programming. Last night, I watched “Es ist Nicht Vorbei” (“It's not Over”), an excellent TV drama about the infamous Hoheneck Prison in the former East Germany.

It didn't take much to get sentenced to Hoheneck (for example, an exit visa offense), and as the title suggests, memories of Hoheneck can last a lifetime. Twenty years after leaving prison, Frau Weber's memories of Hoheneck return when she attends a dinner party hosted by Dr. Limberg. Is Dr. Limberg, the prison doctor who injected her with powerful psychotropic drugs, which, as she puts it, “left black holes in your head, making you barely able to walk, and leaving you in a state of blurred reality?”

The movie is part mystery, part documentary, and part thriller. Do we believe Frau Weber? Can she really remember a voice from twenty years in the past or is she delusional and accusing an innocent man? The mind can sometimes play tricks.

Anja Kling is compelling as Frau Weber and Tobias Oertel is excellent as Dr. Limberg. Two fantastic performances! The film also has Ernst Georg Schwill who plays the former Stasi Officer, Weihe. In real life, Mr. Schwill was once a member of the Stasi (East Germany's notorious secret police). The film is available for viewing for a limited time on Das Erste. Even if you don't understand German, watch a few minutes.


Wednesday, November 9, 2011

The Lenin Monument in Berlin (Das Lenindenkmal Berlins)


Das Lenindenkmal, circa 1980s
I recently wrote how the French following WWII wanted to destroy the die Siegessäule, one of Berlin's most famous and historic monuments. Luckily, that didn't happen. However, another famous Berlin monument wasn't so lucky. Twenty years ago, on November 8, 1991, the Lenin monument (das Lenindenkmal) was disassembled into 129 parts and buried in a sandpit outside of Berlin. Following German reunification, many people felt that a monument dedicated to Communism had no place in a democratic Germany.

Overhead View of Lenin Square
Located in the former Lenin Square (renamed Platz der Vereinten Nationen), the Lenin monument was erected in 1970, stood 19 meters high (approx. 62”), and was made of Ukrainian red granite. More than 200,000 people witnessed its unveiling, including representatives from over 100 nations. When it was decided to remove the monument, many East Germans, including prominent artists and politicians demonstrated but without success.

The former Lenin Square Today
Today, an undistinguished stone fountain is located where Lenin once stood. The fountain, surrounded by five granite blocks symbolizing the five inhabited continents of the earth, rarely attracts attention and is easily overlooked. 


The Head Weighed 3.5 Tons!
The Lenin monument was certainly a piece of East German culture and art. East Germany lasted for 40 years, and Lenin shaped much of the 20th century political landscape. East Germany was no nirvana. It quashed political dissent, practiced systematic terror, and permitted little economic and personal freedom. It wasn't a symbol of good.


Nevertheless, how would you feel if the country you grew up in, totally vanished: its social fabric eradicated and symbols destroyed? We learn from the past, and symbols serve as reminders of both good and evil. Simply eliminating those symbols doesn't change the past or improve the future. Yet, should all symbols be preserved? For example, should a statue of Hitler or Stalin be publicly displayed? I'm not sure I know the answer. 

Unlike the USA, Germany places greater restrictions on symbols and political parties. America has always leaned toward more expressive freedom. Let the people decide what's good or bad.

Recently, on the 20th anniversary of the monument's dismantling, a few local residents voiced support for re-erecting the Lenin monument. Link to the video. It's in German, but I think you'll understand its meaning. 

Sunday, November 6, 2011

Amerikanisches Frühstück in Berlin (American Breakfast in Berlin)


I heard this rumor that there was a Kneipe (local neighborhood pub) in Neukölln that had an authentic “American Breakfast.” I'm not sure what's an American Breakfast, so I decided to find out.

Neukölln is a neighborhood that I rarely visit. It's home to a large Turkish population; but increasingly, it's becoming a popular place for young people as rents in other parts of Berlin are skyrocketing.

I was told that Lagari's owner was from California and that the chef was Scottish (an interesting combination). I was also told that the service was exceptionally slow; but having lived in Portland, I'm used to slow service.

I'm not sure I can adequately describe my experience at Lagari. It was neither bad nor exceptionally good. In a word, it was surreal. I was in Berlin; yet from the moment, I entered Lagari, English was the predominant language. The waiter greeted me in English, the menu was written in English, and the customers were having conversations in English (albeit with a German accent). I tried to order in German, but the waiter replied in English.

The menu included blueberry pancakes with Canadian maple syrup, Heuvos Rancheros with black beans, French Toast, a vegan plate, and some egg dishes. I guess these items qualified as “American,” but why Canadian maple syrup? Isn't Vermont maple syrup good enough?

The place was definitely a neighborhood bar, but there were additional touches intended to give it an American feel (checkered tablecloths, film posters). Hmm?

Despite the warnings, the service was excellent. It was friendly, quick, and efficient. Certainly better than most places in Berlin, and, without a doubt, better than any restaurant in Portland! The food, on the other hand, was unexceptional. I ordered the “egg plate dish.” The hash browns were okay, the pancakes mediocre, the Canadian maple syrup watery (they should have used Vermont syrup), and the toast not really toasted. The eggs were fine but how bad can eggs be?

To be fair, I didn't order Lagari's specialties: the blueberry pancakes or Heuvos Rancheros. I'll certainly visit again. According to its website, Lagari also has exhibitions, music events, and even a pool table.

Saturday, November 5, 2011

Der Foto Des Tages: Der Herbst in Berlin (Photo of the Day: Autumn in Berlin)



Paul-Lincke-Ufer
in Neukölln, Berlin


Destroy die Siegessäule?

I remember living in San Diego and never visiting its world famous animal park. It's one of those oddities in life. You live a city and take it for granted. It's like living in Paris and not visiting the Eiffel Tower or living in New York City and not touring the Statute of Liberty. 


Today, I decided to rectify an omission and visit Berlin's Victory Tower (Die Siegessäule). I've passed it at least a hundred times but never stopped to go inside.

The Siegessäule was built to commemorate the Prussian victories over Denmark, Austria, and France during the 1860s-70s. It's an impressive monument that today symbolizes a unified Berlin. Earlier this year, it was re-opened after a massive restoration. If you climb to the top, it has excellent views of the Tiergarten, Brandenburger Tor and the Regierungsviertel (Government Quarter).

Surprisingly, the Siegessäule escaped destruction during WWII. However, after the war, France (one of the four allied powers occupying Berlin) wanted the historic monument destroyed and erased from the face of the earth. France's proposal was of course vetoed by the other occupying powers. It seems France didn't want a reminder of its loss to Germany in the Franco-Prussian War. 

If any country had a reason to destroy a German monument dedicated war victories, the most likely candidate was the Soviet Union, not France. The Soviet Union's military and civilian casualties during WWII were over 24 million people, almost 14% of its population! In addition, many of its cities were razed and infrastructure completely dismantled; yet, the Soviet's vetoed the idea of destroying the Siegessäule.

France, on the other hand, wanted revenge. Even though France was side-lined during most of the war, had limited war casualties, and actively collaborated with the Nazis in deporting Jews, Gypsies, and political "undesirables," it saw the destruction of the Siegessäule as another opportunity to humiliate a defeated country.

France had a grudge to settle and also a short memory. One factor that led to the rise of National Socialism and ultimately to WWII was the harsh treatment of Germany by the victors of WWI (especially France and Great Britain). Thanks to the level-headed thinking of the USA, Great Britain, and the USSR following WWII, past mistakes were avoided and the Siegessäule spared. Today, we can all enjoy the Siegessäule, including the Frenchies. 

Friday, November 4, 2011

Picture of the Day: Is Berlusconi Next?

I saw this sign on the side
of an Italian Cafe in Kreuzberg.
Over the years, scandal prone
Italian Prime Minister Silvio Berlusconi
has managed to cling to power.
Will he follow in the footsteps of
these former leaders?

Thursday, November 3, 2011

What is it about Germans and Online Security?

Online banking, the debit card, and ATM’s have changed the way we pay bills, eliminated the need for paper checks, and reduced our visits to the bank. In the old days, we had to go to the bank to deposit a check, withdraw money, inquire about an account balance, or take care of an overdraft. Banks were usually open until 3 PM and until 6 PM on Friday. If you were lucky, some banks were even open on Saturday for a few hours.

My Kartenleser
Today, banking is just a click away. However, as banking has become more convenient so has online theft. Accordingly, banks have devised more and more ways to ensure online security. No place exemplifies this trend toward more sophisticated and complicated security measures than Germany. In the USA, online banking usually requires just a PIN code and PassMark Image. In Germany, online banking has become an elaborate procedure that requires a PIN code, a NetKey Code, a debit card, a TAN code, and a Kartenleser (a debit card reader: a small electronic devise that works in conjunction with your computer and debit card).

The Kartenleser is especially complicated since it requires:
  1. Inserting the debit card into the Kartenleser;
  2. Placing the Kartenleser on the computer screen so that the arrows on the Kartenleser match the arrows generated on the computer screen;
  3. Adjusting the width of the computer screen arrows with your mouse; and
  4. Waiting for the Kartenleser to generated a TAN code, which you use to activate online banking.
Sound complicated? It is! I was telling a German friend that this kind of procedure would never fly in the USA. First of all, despite our willingness to embrace all that is new and electronic, Americans like things simple and not complicated. And while a significant number of Americans are computer savvy, many of us still have trouble using an ATM or remembering a PIN code. Throw in another electronic gizmo and a few more codes, and most Americans will say good-bye to online banking, and revert to paper checks and the US Postal Service.

Online security is one area where Americans can't match the obsessive zeal of the Germans. Thank goodness for that!